Bora Bora

I found Bora Bora to be boring boring.  This South Seas island is the quintessential tropical island:  a small mountainous volcanic island covered in lush vegetation, surrounded by a ring of coral reefs and 30 tiny islets with lagoons of blues and greens.  The crystal clear waters of the lagoon is what makes Bora Bora so special.  Stunning colors range from the palest turquoise to dark blue.  Vibrant tropical fish can be seen through the clear water with no special equipment needed.  It is a perfect place to snorkel and dive.

The correct spelling should be Pora Pora as there is no B in the Polynesian language.  Bora Bora was the inspiration for James Michener’s Tales of the South Pacific and the musical South Pacific.  The island was a strategic refueling station for allied forces in the Pacific theater during WWII.

There are sandy beaches, but I did not see any.  My quest to find a beautiful sandy beach and bob around in the warm ocean waters was squashed again.  We did not have access to the beaches on the islets.  It appears that there is one public beach on the island (it was too far to get to in the time allotted) and the rest are “private.”  That is the resorts charge a use fee for beach access.  One couple told me that they went to the Inter-Continental Hotel to have lunch and were told there would be $165 beach use fee plus the cost of lunch.  They did not want to use the beach, just have lunch.  After some negotiation, the manager agreed to waive the fee and they had a terrible salad for only $71. 

Rooms at the resorts, those little grass huts built over the water, run from $1,000 to $12,000 per night!  The island depends upon tourism for survival and has been hard hit by cyclones and the economic downturn.  Nothing is produced here and everything has to be imported.  It is very expensive to live here, but the locals are subsidized by France.  They seem to have an extremely laid back style of life here.  Can you say
L A Z Y.  The main town was about three blocks long, and sand, dirt or pieces of asphalt made up the sidewalks.  It took us about 20 minutes to do the whole town.  There is one road around the island, none to the interior.  There were several jewelry shops selling expensive black pearl jewelry, and I wondered how they could afford to stay in business; the rest of the shops were typical touristy stuff.  The airport is located on one of the islets and “ground” transportation to the main island is by boat.

It is rainy season, but we have been lucky in French Polynesia as we haven’t had any rain.  The days have been quite warm and humid, sunny, and with tradewinds blowing to cool things down.  If you are looking for total peace and quiet, this might be the place for you.  If you wanted to write a book, there is very little to distract you except for the beauty of the place.  I am glad to have had a chance to see these islands.  I came, I saw, I left.  I prefer Hawaii:  it is closer to home, the beaches are fantastic, and there are places to see and things to do – and it is more affordable.

I was escort on a glass bottom boat excursion.  The boat didn’t look very seaworthy, but it had made two previous trips today so I guess was OK.  We motored out to the reef where we cruised around for a bit and then tied to a mooring buoy.  We were in about one to ten feet of water.  Our guide was a former North Dakotan who has lived in these islands for over 40 years.  He was the quintessential beach boy drop out that you see in the movies.  There were dozens of varieties of colorful fish and we had a close-up view from the boat without having to get wet.  The deckhand went overboard and feed the fish and boy did we see a crowd gather around him.  My favorite fish was the Butterfly fish, with black and white stripes and a yellow tail with a black spot.  It was a bumpy ride back to shore as the wind had come up and some of us got sprayed with seawater.  We also had a good view of the mountainous interior.

Michael was so excited with his excursion that he will tell you about it himself.  I think he is ready to move here, but there probably isn’t any bridge club so he will have to be happy with his wonderful experience.

Hi everyone; it’s Michael. 

You have not heard much from me as Beverly and I have been on the same excursions up to now.  Today was the absolute high point for me on this cruise so far.  I escorted a small group of ten for an island circumnavigation by jet boat.  After leaving the pier, and speeding on top of the waves at about 50 MPH, our first stop was a gorgeous coral garden.  The skipper tied us off to an anchor buoy and we proceeded to snorkel among tens of thousands of tropical fish.  It was as if I was swimming in an aquarium.  There were thousands of fish to begin with, but when the deckhand tossed some food in the water this number grew by a factor of ten.  We were in maybe ten feet of water and the number of colors visible on the surface was astounding.

Our next stop was a white sandy beach off of Mitira island, one of many smaller islands surrounding Bora Bora.  Here the skipper tossed the anchor and we proceeded to swim in all of three feet of water.  It was gorgeous, and while in only three feet we were only about  fifty feet away from a blue line in the water where the depth went instantly to 120 feet.  These variations in depth are where all the incredible shades of blue come from.  Did I mention that while bathing in this warm water the captain served us pineapple and bananas?  Oh, such a tough day!

Papeete, Tahiti

It’s Polynesian.  It’s French.  It’s Chinese.  It’s the capital of French Polynesia. 

French Polynesia is made up of five different archipelagos in the South Pacific Ocean. Papeete was founded in 1818 by whalers, but the islands were first visited by Europeans in the late 1700s.  Captain Cook arrived during this time – where didn’t the good captain explore? – and Tahiti became under colonial rule.  Around 1840, the ruling queen feared the English presence and signed on as a French protectorate.  The country remains a self-governing French region.

French is the main language and a local dialect is also spoken.  English is also very common.  Papeete is more citified than I thought it would be.  I was thinking of a sleepy village with quaint buildings near the docks.  Papeete is anything but.  There are both foot and car ferries that travel between the islands as well as cruise ships, naval ships, and freighters sharing the harbor.  The harbor is very sheltered and is surrounded by commercial establishments.  I took copious notes today and I don’t think I can write a comprehensive blog because the information I received from our guide is all over the place, so I will just throw out the facts and my observations as best as I can. 

The culture is very interesting, the town a disappointment, and the countryside we saw was lush with tropical vegetation but lacked any charm.  The island is mountainous and the people live along the shoreline.  I did not see anything that would encourage me to come back someday.  We did not see any sandy beaches. The “suburbs” were shabby and unkempt with rusted tin roofs to peeling paint to lots of graffiti (actually some of it was pretty darn good).  It looked like homes were one step away from being reclaimed by the jungle.  There didn’t seem to be any pride of ownership.  I think it might be a cultural thing as this observation has been made on other tropical islands I have been to.  There were no zoning laws that I could see. 

Family is very important to Polynesians.  They live as multi-generational units sharing the same house.  Only Polynesians can own the land and it is passed from generation to generation.  Our guides said her home has been in the family since the 1700s!  As I explained in the Moorea blog, relatives are buried on the land and they just keep adding the deceased up to three layers deep.  When they need more room, they take the bones from the oldest and put it in a little box.  Awwww, ewwww.

Most people are Protestant and Sunday is dress up day for church.  All businesses close in observation of the Sabbath.   Traffic is horrific:  our guide can made the drive from her home to work in 20 minutes on the weekend; during the week, the same drive takes her three hours!  Gas is $7 per gallon.  It is very expensive to live here as everything must be shipped in.  They do not grow any vegetables here, but have lots and lots of fruit.  They eat fish, but little meat.  There are three McDonalds on the island.  The population is 180,000 and 16% is Chinese.  Chinese are now natives as they have been on the island since the 1700s when they were brought over to work in the cotton fields.  Today, most commercial stores in town are Chinese owned.  There is a gardenia plantation, and bananas and coconuts are farmed.  There were many, many different varieties of palm trees, but no date palms.  Almost every house we saw had solar water heaters on the roof.  Roadside fruit stands were everywhere, and mangos grew wild and were plentiful.  There are no spiders or snakes.  Cats were brought to the island to kill the rats (and they also killed the birds).  Wild chickens are everywhere and they are used to kill venomous centipedes.  I don’t know if they eat these chickens.  They burn palm leaves to kill the mosquitoes. 

We had another warm and humid day in the Society Islands.  With friends Gerald and Robin, we went to the Public Market to look for souvenirs.  We had to cross the main street and I was astonished to find that the cars actually stopped for pedestrians in the sidewalk!  You put one foot in the street and the cars stop.  Just like that.  Six lanes of traffic.  Wow, I don’t think I have ever experienced something like that before.  The sidewalks in town were part tile, part cement and part holes.  I stepped on a large sheet of plywood on the sidewalk and could feel the board give way; a huge gaping hole was the size of a refrigerator.  Not only do you need to really watch your step while walking because of the holes, but the sidewalk can end and you find yourself right in the middle of a restaurant; you have to walk in the street and then the sidewalk begins again.

Back to the market.  Women were making leis with fresh, fragrant flowers and weaving baskets.  The lower floor was mainly food vendors:  fruit, vegetables, fish, bottled sauces, etc.  A  HUGE rat scampered right by us near the fish section.  Gerald saw it, I felt it.  He said it was the largest rat he ever saw, must have been at least a foot long.  I kid you not.  Upstairs was clothing and jewelry booths.  I bought a black pearl and mother of pearl pendant. 

Michael and I were on the afternoon Paul Gauguin bus excursion.  No escort duty; it is nice that we get to go on the excursions without having to babysit.  The bus had good air conditioning thank goodness because all of the stops didn’t.  We went to the Museum of Tahiti and learned that the islands are sinking. 

Our next stop was to the Temple of Marau.   Male “volunteers” were sacrificed to honor the god Marau.  They were either beheaded or burned alive.  Don’t worry about how horrible the pain must have been.  They were given Kava to drink to numb the pain.  Any “volunteer” was given land as a reward to pass on to his family.  I think a down payment and a mortgage would be a better choice.

Our final stop was to the Paul Gauguin Museum.  I am not a big fan of museums, but the amount of driving to get here was adding insult to injury.  This is an open air museum so there are no original paintings by Gauguin because of the elements, just posters or other cheesy reproductions.  One thing I did learn about Gauguin is that he brought syphilis to the island and almost wiped out the entire native population.

After two days of riding in buses, I am really feeling the fatigue and pain in my back.  People who know that I have had surgery have been so sweet and supportive, and offered me the last row of seats across the back of the bus so I could lie down and rest.  I am not going to ride another bus for the rest of the cruise -- well until the next time there is something I must see.

Moorea and Pepeete, Tahiti

Moorea, Tahiti

After six long days at sea, we finally saw land -- Moorea in French Polynesia.  There is no cruise ship harbor or dock so the ship dropped anchor off Cook Bay.  We tendered to shore via a treacherous and shallow, but well-marked channel.  The entire island is surrounded by a coral reef and you can see the waves breaking over the reef well offshore.  Our first view of this tropical island was the mountain spires and the crystal clear water and palms waving in the breeze.  There were so many dazzling shades of the aqua water, from pale turquoise to deep blue azur.  We didn’t see very many sandy beaches.

Moorea is a heart-shaped island with two dramatic bays indenting the north side.  The entire island was created by a volcano, and the bays and valleys leading up to the mountains are where the crater was.  The interior of the island has shark-toothed and jagged mountain ridges and peaks rising up to 4,000 feet.  The entire island is covered in what I call heavy, “jungle” vegetation with so many different flowers in many different colors.  The famous Bali Hai mountain peak is located here.  The island is only 10 miles wide and there is a 37-mile main road that circles the entire island.  In some places, the road is just a few feet from the water.  The eight island villages are located along the shoreline as the mountains come right down to the sea.  There is a population of 17,000 and over 1/3 of them commute to Tahiti by ferry for work.  Tahiti is just 12 miles across the Sea of Moon.  The rest of the population works in tourism or agriculture – or it seems, doesn’t work at all. 

The villages and homes look unkempt, with chickens running around all over the place.  Cock fighting is a big activity, with gambling and drinking.  Our guide says they do it because there are too many roosters and that they are noisy.  Umm, I have a bridge to sell you.  Could this be rationalization for this cruel “sport?”  The other past time, is chasing and catching your dinner, because there is no Costco roast chicken here.  Our guide said there was no crime, just domestic disputes; robbery is not a problem because there is no where to run and everyone probably knows everyone. 

Summer is from November to April and is the rainy season.  We were very lucky today as there was plenty of sunshine and a nice stiff breeze.  The high temperature in the summer is 90* and the low 68*.  There doesn’t seem to be air conditioning in the homes; most of the homes we passed on the road had their curtains tied up in a big knot, which hung in the middle of the window.  Many homes had thatched roofs.  There are lots of mosquitoes.  Home prices range from $150,000 to $300,000 for a tiny two bedroom.  I was wondering how the population could afford such steep home prices, but I think I got the answer how it works:  granny and pappy dies and gets buried in the backyard with elaborate tombs covered in flowers.  That way the heirs cannot sell the land. So generation to generation lives in the house.

Pineapples are grown here in the crater.  They just need sunshine and heat.  There is no irrigation as the rain is ample for growth.  Pineapples need six months to grow.  Other products made here are noni juice and there is a perfume factory.

Michael and I had the same tour on the same bus!!  We each took a camera and guess what?  We took mostly the same pictures.  Upon arrival at the tender pier, we were greeted with locals in long boats, native dancers and music.  There were the obligatory vendor tents selling colorful pareos and black pearl jewelry.  A pareo, or sarong, is colorful rectangular cloth that one wraps around they body as a bathsuit coverup or as a dress (but only on skinny people).  We board a nicely air-conditioned bus and started our drive around the island. 

The first stop was Tiki Village, a replica of a traditional Polynesian village, where we had a refreshment (noni juice???) and took lots of pictures.  The locals, both men and women, were heavily tattooed with native designs.  Next, we stopped at an overlook to take pictures of what I think of as a typical Polynesian hotel – little grass shacks built over the water.  Oh, these were so delightful to look at and a week here would be just fine.  The next stop took us up into the mountains on a terrible dirt road with huge potholes to the site of an old temple where there was sacrifices.  I was ready to sacrifice the driver as this was not what the doctor ordered for my back.  One more photo stop and then back to the pier, and a tender ride back to the ship.

Our original plan was to eat lunch on board and then go back to shore and find a nice sandy beach to lie on.  Since we didn’t see any beaches near the pier, we just stayed aboard.  Michael spent the afternoon at the pool, and I tried to watch a movie and rest my back.

Once again, the captain has weighed anchor and taken off early.  After a short tour of Cook’s Bay, we are off for Papeete,Tahiti -- a one hour cruise.

Papeete, Tahiti

We had dinner in the dining room with Gerald and Robin while cruising to Papeete.  The food has been a disappointment as the presentation is exceptional but the taste doesn’t match the looks.  We had patato latkes that had rutabagas and celery in it.  A little greasy, but it was a nice change.  Fussy foods with French names and descriptions is getting to be too much.  I did have a peanut butter and jelly sandwich the other night.

I am not sure what to expect in Papeete as lights begin to appear as we get closer.  Oh look, there are two more ships docked next to us.  Great, that means crowds in port.  It was a warm night so off we went for a little stroll in town. Right next to the ship pier there was a large plaza with musicians and many food vendors.  There were families and lots of kids running and playing, riding bikes and skateboards.  It is a pleasure to see the young ones.  It is Friday Night celebration and passengers are welcome along with the locals.  And there was lots of neon signs!  There was a movie theater, restaurants, car dealership and other shops along the main drag.  It did not look tropical in any way, shape or form.  It is said that Tahitians are amused to see the look of surprise that appears on the face of visitors when they see the modern city for the first time.  Pepeete is a very busy trading port, and commercial and business center.  Indeed, we all had that reaction!  Very disappointing at first glance. 

We discovered a huge farmers market that we plan on exploring in the morning and it should be interesting to see and absorb some local culture.  We then take an afternoon museum tour of all things Paul Gauguin.  I hope my back holds out and that I am not doing any damage to myself.  Walking is great; sitting for long periods of time, especially on a bus with poor suspension, is still uncomfortable.

Pacific Ocean

The Pacific Ocean is the largest and deepest of the world’s four oceans, covering more than a third of the earth’s surface and containing more than half of its free water.  It is divided into two sections:  the part north of the equator is the North Pacific and the part south of the equator is the South Pacific.  The name Pacific, which means peaceful, was named by Portuguese navigator Ferdinand Magellan in 1520.

Its maximum length north to south is 9,630 miles, stretching from the Bering Strait to Antarctica, and its average depth is 14,000 feet.  The greatest known depth in any of the world’s oceans is 36,200 feet in the Mariana Trench off Guam.

Now that you know how big the Pacific Ocean is, let me reiterate:  it is friggin’ big and not a ship or land anywhere in sight.  No sea birds either.  Just lots of water and sky and clouds.  It is a lonely feeling when peering out to sea even when you know there is land hundreds of miles away -- one could swear that nothing else exists.  It must have taken a lot of courage for the ancients to set sail for the new world not knowing what is out there.

So far our trip has mainly consisted of sea days.  There has not been much to write about so my blogs have been a little bit boring so please be patient; good stuff and more adventures are coming.  We land in Tahiti in two days and hopefully I will have plenty to write about as I have never been to French Polynesia and most of the other stops on this itinerary.

Crossing the Line

I am no longer a Pollywog!  I have crossed the line.  I am now a Shellback.  OOOOK, what in the world am I talking about?  Why in the world would I get excited about becoming a turtle? 

I have made my first crossing of the equator by sea!  It doesn’t count if by air or land.  There is an official ceremony or an initiation rite by all navies that commemorates a sailor’s first crossing of the equator.  Originally, the tradition was created as a test for seasoned sailors to ensure their new shipmates were capable of handling long rough times at sea.  Sailors who had already crossed the equator were nicknamed Shellbacks, or sons of Neptune; those who had not, were referred to as Pollywogs.

After crossing the line, Pollywogs receive a subpoena to appear before King Neptune and his court including Davy Jones, her Highness Amphitrite and other dignitaries represented by high ranking seamen.  Once the ceremony is completed, a Pollywog receives a certificate declaring his new status.

We had a fun filled ceremony on the pool deck.  It was great fun.  A stiff wind was blowing pretty hard, but it didn’t stop the passengers from crowding the deck.  The temperatures were mild and the sun was shining.  The captain blew the ships horn when we passed the equator.  Davy Jones and King Neptune officiated, and crew members were tried, found guilty, then were sentenced and thrown in the pool.  The Pollywogs were then commanded to walk the line and kiss the fish (it was a real one – stinky, too).  At that point, we officially became shellbacks. 

P.S.  Michael was stuck playing bridge and did not attend the ceremony.  Does that mean he is still a Pollywog?

 

 

Somewhere in the North Pacific

As I gaze into the night, all I see around me is inky darkness, broken by the moon playing peek-a-boo behind some round billowy clouds that are silhouetted by its light.  We are nearing the equator and the water, humidity and air temperature are increasing.  Standing on the veranda, I am careful not to look down into the water.  I don’t like to think about what is under the ship.  Isn’t that strange for someone who has spent the better part of her adult life boating in the ocean?

For six days we will be a little vessel, floating in a huge sea.  There is nothing to see except water and clouds.  Some days we see the sun peaking out for brief periods, but mostly the sky is overcast.  The captain changed course today to avoid rain showers so we could have a special lunch outside on the pool desk.  We have sailed over 4,000 miles so far and have been blessed with mild seas.  I have finally gotten my sea legs and no longer look like a drunken sailor.  My bed still vibrates like “magic fingers” and the cabin moans and groans.  These are now becoming soothing sounds.

The movement of the ship causes continual movement of my body, which is causing my muscles to work hard to keep my body balanced and upright.  I am sitting for longer and longer periods of time in chairs that are not ergonomically correct.  I am now starting to hurt and often feel fatigued.  I have to remind myself that I am still recovering from the surgery and must pace myself better (I am taking the day off today to rest).  Who would have thought that a nice relaxing ocean cruise could be so physically demanding?

We continue to have well attended bridge lessons and games.  Six down and 33 more sessions to go.  I have been to all the lessons as a fill-in, but something is happening to me:  I am actually learning!  I have been playing in the games and my partner and I have placed in the middle of the pack, or like yesterday, placed so low that we should not even have been named.  Some days you can do nothing wrong; other days, it doesn’t even pay to show up. 

Lahaina, Maui

Rising gently from the sea, covered in a velvety green blanket, the towering mountains of Lahaina greeted us this beautiful morning.  The Voyager dropped anchor, and we were surrounded by humpback whales cavorting and playing with the whale watching boats.  Seriously, we were having breakfast on the fantail watching as the whales breeched every minute or so!

Lahaina has a notorious past.  Lusty whalers pitted against the Christian missionaries who were determined to save souls.  The town retains much of the flavor of the whaling days, and buildings have been renovated, many which date from the time when it was Hawaii’s capital.  Much of the town has been designated a National Historic Landmark, and new buildings must conform in style to those built before 1920.

We didn’t have any tours scheduled today so this was a good morning to get the laundry done.  Our next six days are sea days and there is no way you are going to get me into the laundry room during this time.  After lunch, we tendered into town and walked from one end to the other.  There are restaurants and souvenir, jewelry and clothing shops along the main drag.  We have been here several times and have seen most of the highlights, most recently as two years ago, so we didn’t feel deprived that we didn’t have a tour.

There was an open air art show in the main plaza, which is famous for its Banyan tree.  We tried to take a picture of this massive tree, but there is no way to do so.  The tree was planted in 1873 to commemorate the 50^th anniversary of the first Protestant mission in Lahaina, and is the largest Banyan in the United States and the second largest in the world (India has the largest).  Aerial roots drop vertically from the branches and eventually plant into the ground and form massive additional trunks that supports the tree’s large canopy.  This enormous tree has 16 trunks in addition to the original trunk in the center, and covers an area over one acre!  One Tree!!  I am sorry to go on and on about Banyan trees, but they are just amazing and so unique.

Our captain has a funny little habit:  he leaves before the appointed time.  That is, the ship is due to sail at 5 pm, he leaves at 4:45 pm.  This has happened every single time we have been in port.  Today, the tender had to chase the ship because it had left before the tender could be pulled on board.  This is one ship you better not be late getting back from touring.

I am going into BlackBerry cell phone withdrawal.  Since Verizon eliminated the unlimited data package, it is not cost effective to use our phones for email and web.  I will use the ship’s internet (which is slower than a slug).  I made my last minute phone calls today.  I talk to Deborah almost every day and try to talk to Isabelle (who hardly ever will talk to me on the phone); this is going to be a nail biting time as I am addicted to my phone.  I will miss Facebook, too, as that is how I find out what’s going on with everyone.  I need to stay connected, therefore, I implore all of you to please email with news, gossip, etc. -- any news.  What say you folks in Palm Springs?

We are heading south to Tahiti.  This is where the trip starts getting interesting for me as we have never been to French Polynesia.  We still haven’t hit the beach yet, but I hope that changes when we arrive in Moorea. The captain promised good water the entire 2,700 miles until we arrive.  Keep your fingers crossed he is right!!

This is my best picture of the entire trip.  The parrot was sitting on a perch with his owner nearby, and using a long lens, I snapped the pictures.  It wasn't until after I took the pictures that I saw a sign hanging right next to the birds, "DO NOT TAKE ANY PICTURES."  Oh well......

Honolulu Hawaii

Aloha!  Greetings from paradise.  The sun and warm temperature made for a picture perfect couple of days in the 50^th state’s capital city. 

Honolulu is derived from the native words hono, meanings “a bay”; and lulu meaning “sheltered.”  It is 2,397 miles from San Francisco.  Tourism is the leading industry.  The yellow hibiscus is the state flower.

The island of Oahu is bisected by a mountain range.  The leeward side of the island receives 25" rain, while the windward side receives 170”.  The mountains on the windward (wet) side have vertical cliffs and it is cool and windy; the leeward (dry) mountain side gradually slopes to sea.  The city of Honolulu is running out of buildable room, so you will see huge swaths of the leeward mountains covered with houses.  Three quarters of the state’s population live here on Oahu.

 

The west or windward side is where moon doggie (surfer dudes) ride the gigantic waves.  The ocean water temperature is 76* and the average depth between the islands is between 14,000 and 18,000 feet.

Waikiki is located on the leeward side and this is where all the big resorts and high rises – and shopping -- are located.  Waikiki means “spouting water built on coral reef.”  There are no private beaches; all are open to the public, and houses built on the beach have to provide beach access.

In the many parks and gardens, you will find Indian banyan trees and an assortment of exotic plants and flowers.  There are 120,000 species of trees and plants.  There are mango trees everywhere, and right now they are in season.  I wanted to shout out to the bus driver to stop and let us pick some as the fruit was hanging on decorative trees lining the streets of the business district.  Forgot your lunch and have no money?  Just step outside and pick a mango!


Today, both Michael and I had tours, but we went as guests not as escorts.  It felt weird not having anything to do.  We had a city tour, and stopped at some scenic overlooks for picture taking (wild chickens included), saw Diamond Head, and the National Cemetery in the Punch Bowl crater.  The National Cemetery was beautiful.  Michael’s tour included a stop at the Pearl Harbor memorial.  We had last visited the memorial almost 30 years ago and much has changed.  In fact, most of it was brand new, having been opened only three weeks ago.  The somber and sobering experience one cannot help but take away from here has not changed though.  For those of you who have been here, the oil continues to leak from the Arizona!

 

Regent put on a special BBQ on the pool deck.  The chaise lounges were removed and replaced with dining tables covered with white table cloths and china.  Flags and banners were hung across the deck.  There were five ice carvings, and watermelon was sculpted into pirates, dogs, and owls.  A local band played Hawaiian music and there were hula dancers, too.  Lobster tails were BBQ’d along with the ribs, chicken, and steaks.  There was roast beef, turkey, salads, taco bar, shrimp, crab legs and desserts.  We had dinner with Gerald and Robin, the folks from Boise and had a wonderful time swapping travel and work stories.  Michael got in a few good jokes and ate at least seven and maybe nine lobster tails; we lost count!





Hilo, Hawaii

Land Ho!  Terra Firma!  What a joy to walk in a straight line.

Michael and I both had escort duty on the same tour, different bus.  We were in Hilo two years ago, and it rained.  Today no rain, but no sun either.  Our tour took us to Akaka Falls, the Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Factory, and Nani Mau Gardens.

Hilo is located on the east side of the big Island of Hawaii and is the center of government and commerce for the island.  It is also a very rainy place with lush vegetation – 120” of rain per year, making it the rainiest place in Hawaii.  The west shore only receives about 40” per year, thus the resorts are on the Kona side of the island.  There are 132 islands in the Hawaii archipelago, but there are only eight named ones.  The Big Island is 4,000 square miles and is still growing, courtesy of Kilauea, the youngest of the five volcanoes that make up the Big Island.  Stay tuned to this blog for an exciting narrative about Kilauea.

Not far from Hilo is the Kilauea Volcanoes National Park.  Here you can visit the lava tubes and if lucky, see lava flows.  We didn’t go here on this trip.  Our last visit here was disappointing; we didn’t see Kilauea because of the heavy rain clouds and the VOG – that’s volcanic smoke.

Much of original downtown Hilo was washed away in a tsunami in 1960.  What has survived has been restored to its characteristic 1920’s and 1930’s rustic plantation style.  We drove by Banyan Park where 50 huge banyan trees with their aerial roots dangling from their limbs were planted some 60-70 years ago by visiting celebrities such as Babe Ruth and Amelia Earhart.  By the way, a collection of the dangling roots make up the trunk of the tree. 

There are no more sugar plantations, but you will see wild sugar cane plants in the countryside along the roads.  The last plantation closed in the 1990s due to competition from other countries where the labor was cheaper.  Today, Hawaii produces 60% of the world’s macadamia nuts, and is the only state in the nation that produces coffee, vanilla beans, and cocoa.  Fact:  the macadamia nut shell is the hardest nut shell known to man and Hershey owns Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Factory.

Everywhere we went, you could see how nature could overtake the entire populated areas.  Everything grows here except for Arctic and Saharan vegetation.  Ninety five percent of all vegetation has been imported, much of it from the sailors of yore who would use the tropical islands as a supply depot to repair their ships, the 1800s version of West Marine.  There were vines and ferns draped from utility lines strung over the street, some with bright flowers and berries. 

The houses all have either tin or metal roofs.  There are two main reasons for this:  it rains a lot and it is a cost effective material; and, it is used as a water collection device.  Most homes are not hooked up to a water supply company so they collect the rain water for irrigation, and cooking and cleaning (after a filtering and purification process).

I always seem to pick up obscure trivia and this is no different.  In the Hawaiian language, beef is called pe pe; appetizers are called pu pu.  Beef appetizers are called pe pe pu pu!  Oh, I crack myself up!

Our first stop was Akaka Falls, an impressive 420 feet high (by contrast Niagara Falls is only 200 feet by really, really wide).  OK, there is no comparison. J  We walked down several sets of stairs and walked about ¼ mile to see the falls.  Poor Michael wound up carrying a lady’s walker back up the many sets of stairs.  What a gentleman!  Yours truly navigated this walk splendidly.

We then took a guided tram ride at the Nuni Mau Gardens and saw some incredible plants and trees.  There was the cannonball tree, the sausage tree, the cocoa tree and many different flowering plants, palms, bamboo and stuff I had never heard of.  And, of course, the orchids, in all colors and sizes.

Our final stop was to the Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Factory.  Free Samples!  Both Michael and I received a gift bag of goodies from our guide – we have already broken into the can of nuts.  I think I’ll save the chocolate covered nuts for another day.

As we were leaving Hilo Bay, we were greeted with gray whales breaching all around the ship.  By the time I got the camera out and opened the veranda door, we had passed them.  Drat, no pictures. 

Here is the exciting narrative I was talking about earlier:  the Captain decided we would skirt the shore of the Big Island and cruise by the lava flow from Kilauea about 9 pm.  After a nice leisurely dinner with a lovely couple from Boise, we went on the pool deck to wait.  The evening air was mild and there was no wind.  The Captain finally comes on the PA and announces that we are abeam of Kilauea.   It is dark and the lights from the ship interfered with visibility, so up to the top most deck to get a good view.  Camera in hand, we spot something red.  The Captain nudged the ship closer to shore and as we closed in you could see a river of molten red lava flowing down to the sea and actually see the steam cloud as it hit the cold ocean water.  Plumes of red hot lava were shooting high up in the air.  We were so close you could almost roast marshmallows from the heat!  Click click went the camera shutter, trying to get a good shot of this thick, viscous goo.  In your wildest dream -- another dud, just like Vesuvius last year in Italy.  So disappointed; the weather did not cooperate and all I am left with is my imagination.

Sea Days to Hawaii

What is it like to be at sea for 4 days?  It is like walking on a rope bridge, like the kind that crosses a gorge.  We have been lucky so far that the seas have been relatively calm.  This is a smaller ship than we are used to and it rides the seas differently than a larger ship does.   Depending on where you are on the ship, it can seem motionless; other places, it pitches, vibrates, and rolls.  Even in bed, your body is in constant motion.  As I mentioned before, our cabin is in the stern on deck 9 – all the way in the back as far as you can go.  It is bumpy, lumpy, vibrates, rattles, squeaks, groans and moans.  For a person who is so in tune with her body as it recovers from major back surgery, the constant motion, even when one is sitting or lying down, it starting to take its toll.  I feel everything now.  My back is very fatigued from the constant adjustment the muscles make to keep the body upright.  Most people do not feel this at all as it is automatic.  I continually look like a drunken sailor as I walk down the halls and at times I feel a little queasy. Michael says I am turning into a wimp.  I try to get back to my cabin whenever I can to lie down and rest.  I am ready for terra firma!

We walk stem to stern several times a day.  The bridge room is on the lowest passenger deck, forward.  It seems as though all our time is spent there as I have had to play every day!  Michael has had excellent reviews on his teaching.  We have had full houses for the classes and games.  There is one lady who needed a partner, but anyone Michael sent her way was rejected.  So he has been playing with her, which is something he does not like to do when he is the Director, although he is enjoying playing.  I actually have to work on this cruise so far!  With so many people, I am filling in for beginner and intermediate lessons as well as playing.  Geesh, I was looking forward to some knitting time.

Our typical sea day goes like this:  get dressed, eat breakfast, work, eat lunch, work, eat dinner, go to the show.  I think we are the hardest working people from the entertainment staff!  People love their bridge.  I try to schedule some fitness time, but that is not working for me.  I went to the gym and met with the trainer to get some fine points on my exercises to strength my back and legs.  For one half hour, she ran me       through some new, refined exercises and I just about got seasick.  I cannot work out inside the gym or on a moving ship.  I walked the top deck where the track is and the movement is such that I am afraid to lose my footing and trip.  So while at sea, I am content to walk from one end of the ship to the other looking like a drunk, which I do several times a day and do some of my exercises while in bed. 

We have not had internet access since the second day at sea.  So if you don’t hear from me that is generally the reason; or else, there is nothing to write about.  The weather is getting warmer and more humid.  The pool is closed and drained because the water sloshes wildly and makes for a water hazard.  I don’t have much to say about the food because I haven’t eaten a real dinner yet.  There was the “famous” Regent block party last night where you meet your neighbors at a cocktail party held in the hallway. 

San Francisco and Sail Away

Yesterday, we made it to San Francisco only 2 ½ hours late.  It took two trolleys to hold all our stuff, and both were piled high.  We previously made a reservation with Super Shuttle and were very pleased with the fast and efficient service.  We had an enjoyable, but bumpy ride into town with some interesting people.  One fellow had never been on a cruise and by the time we reached our hotel, he was ready to sign on.  Maybe we could have a little side business…cruise referrals by Walker. 

By this time we were famished.  Do we eat or rest?   It was so tempting just to lie down and rest my back, which gets “tired” after I have been sitting too long, and then it starts to spasm and ache.  If I lie down and get some of the pressure off the spine, then I feel much better.  I usually lay down two or three times during the day and apply an ice pack.  If I lie down, then the adrenaline stops flowing, I get stiff and poof, the energy is gone; it is so much harder to get going again. 

Not one to let grass grow under my feet (and see paragraph above), off we went to find an Italian restaurant recommended by Leny and Moshe.  The concierge said it wasn’t very far at all.  The next time someone says that to you, I give you permission to laugh in their face.  It was at least 1 ½ miles up hill, both ways and the streets are at crazy angles and must of been laid out by someone who was tripping.  The rain had stopped and the temperature was pleasant for a long walk – and there wasn’t even any wind!  For those who know SF, our hotel is down by Fisherman’s Wharf.  We walked up Columbus Avenue, through North Beach.  We passed one Italian café or bistro after another – we could have been in Italy.  I didn’t realize there were that many Italian names!  We turned right on Kearney (per the concierge) and found ourselves in Chinatown. We had to backtrack and consult Google for the address.  Moshe told us to look for an adult bookshop, which is right next door to Tomasso’s.  It was turn left on Kearney dumb dumb concierge guy.  We had a deliciouso pizza, with biscotti as a chaser.  We cabbed back to the hotel for a well deserved rest, and for Michael, a game of online bridge.

This morning dawned bright and clear.  Michael went to Boudin’s for breakfast treats to bring back to the hotel while I was getting ready for the day.  Oh boy, it was a tough morning.  I ached and hurt and needed some chemical help to get going.  I have been told that recovery for my surgery takes six months to a year, and today I believe it.  The laundry, flu, packing, flying, shuttle, walking, etc. has added up.

Kelly took a day off of work to come and play with Mom and Dad.  What a treat for us to have her spend the day with us.  Michael managed to get all of our luggage into her car (minus me) and drop it off at the ship.  We then spent a couple of hours wandering around Fisherman’s Wharf and Pier 39 in SUNSHINE.  The sea lions, who if you remember took over an entire marina, were barking and sunning themselves and  putting on quite a show for the spectators.  It is amazing to see these behemoths lift themselves out of the water and onto the dock.

Showtime!! On to the Regent Seven Seas Voyager for lunch.  We previously obtained a visitor pass for Kelly so embarkation went fast and smooth.  After lunch, we toured the ship, trying to remember where everything was located.  We last sailed on Voyager to the Baltics in June 2009.  By this time, I am really dragging fanny.  I was not looking forward to unpacking, but if you want to lie down on the bed, you need to unpack.  In fits and spurts, I would alternately unpack, lie down, unpack a few more things.  Then we had to have the mandatory lifeboat drill.  The lifeboat drill on Regent is so civilized; there is no need to bring the life jacket from your room if you don’t want to.  They will provide one for you!  The muster station is in one of the lounges, so there was no need to stand outside on the deck in the elements wearing your bright orange neck wrap. 

The nice comfy bed beckoned me so I snuck out early.  I wish you could see what this looked like:  two suitcases with the tops open, stuff in and on the top, and about 50 wooden hangers dumped in the middle of the bed.  While we were at the lifeboat drill, our room stewardess “dropped” off the extra hangers I requested.  I just pushed things around until I had a little space to curl up on as the exhaustion hit really hard.

A little after 4pm, we sailed out of San Francisco Bay, past the city, under the Golden Gate Bridge, and right smack into the fog.  There were wisps of fog swirling around the bridge while the sun was shining on it.  What a beautiful sight!

Sail away party, not me.  Dinner, not me.  TV, no sound.  TV fixed, room service, and now I am dutifully writing.  The seas are supposed to be mild for the entire four days to Hilo; however, we are in the stern (at the very, very back on deck 9) and there is quite a bit of movement.  The ship is creaking and groaning, a shutter here and there, and I can hear the swish of the ship as she moves through the sea.  While lying in bed, I feel the ship’s vibration – it’s just like “magic fingers!”  (for you youngsters, magic fingers refers to a coin operated hotel bed that causes the bed to vibrate, all for 25 cents). Michael was down on the lower decks and said he didn’t feel anything.  If you ever get to choose your room on a ship, get one that is midships on a lower deck.

Our room is the same kind that we had on the Baltic cruise.  Very roomy and pleasant, with a veranda and walk-in closet.