Regent Voyager of the Seas

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Sunday, February 13, 2011

Dunedin, New Zealand

Dunedin was “founded” in 1848 by 320 Scottish people.  However, Captain Cook came in 1770, the whalers in 1831, and the Maori was here 900 years before the Scots.  So who really founded Dunedin? From what I can gather, this was not one of the Maori’s favorite places as they preferred the North Island (New Zealand is made up of the North Island and the South Island).  Maori prisoners from the north were sent here for punishment and they built volcanic rock walls all over the place.



Dunedin lost much of its industry so what keeps it going?  Higher Education.  The University of Otago (founded 1869) is located here as well as technical, medical and dental schools.  Most of Dunedin is built on the hillsides.  Much of the commercial downtown area is built on reclaimed land.

I must be a magnet for bus rides on crazy, narrow, twisty, winding, uphill/downhill one-lane roads that have absolutely no shoulder or passing room.  Whew, what an experience today.  New Zealand bus drivers are pretty darn good maneuvering those big rigs without hitting anything or going over a cliff.  I must say the views were breath taking, especially since we had beautiful sunny weather with nary a cloud in sight.  

My tour went out to Taiaroa Head on Otago Peninsula to view a Royal Albatross breading colony at the Royal Albatross Center.  Taiaroa Head is the wildlife capital of New Zealand, and is a perfect breeding ground for the albatross with lots of wind and flat spots on the land for nesting.  We drove along the harbor passing lush green pastures dotted with sheep, bays and inlets, and then along the spine of the rugged mountains where we could see the Tasman Sea and Otago Harbor at the same time. This peninsula is New Zealand’s most renowned eco-tourism area.

An albatross has a 9 foot wing span.  Royal Albatross’ depend on the wind to give them lift.  They do not fly, they glide on wind currents.  They walk to the end of a cliff, spread their wings, and wait for the wind to take them up. Their shoulders lock, preventing the wind from moving the wings.  They spend most of their life at sea and come to shore every other year to mate (they lay only one egg).  They are monogamous, mating for life.  It takes one year to raise a chick and when ready, the chicks fly – they don’t have to learn.  They spend the other non-parenting year flying around Antarctica. Chicks take three to five years to mature; during this time, they never touch land.  They feed and rest on the water.  They are scavengers, eating octopus and squid debree from the surface of the water.  When they mature, they come to shore looking for a mate, which can take several seasons for this to happen.  Just like people, some have better luck than others.  They have a survival rate of 95% and usually die from old age; they can live up to 60 years! 

My surgeon would either be proud of me or astonished that I was able climb up the hill to the viewing tower.  The path from the information center went up at least at a 30* angle with one big switchback!  OK, maybe I exaggerate a little bit, but it was so steep that several people could not make it up to the tower. I was huffing and puffing by the time I got to the top.  I paused along the way to take pictures (that was so I could catch my breath – pretty sneaky, huh).  It was worth the trip because I got some excellent pictures of the Royal Albatross doing its thing.  Wind conditions have to be right for them to fly, and right they were. 

After the hair-raising trip along the mountain spine, we arrived at Larnach Castle for lunch and a tour.  Boy, what a view.  This private 40,000 sq ft home has lovingly been refurbished.  We had a nice lunch in the ballroom, and mercifully, they were organized and quite civilized (not like the lunch in Rotorua).  I only toured a few rooms as I must admit I have seen my share of castles, and it was so lovely outside I ducked out and sat in the lovely gardens.









Michael’s turn:

Well, and not to be outdone, I had an exciting day as well.  I escorted 39 people on a wildlife safari.  We left the wharf and traveled to the Albatross Breeding Colony as described by Beverly.  We just passed by and so no albatross for me.  Just beyond though was “Natures Wonders,” from where we would take our safari.  First, we received a safety briefing on the Argo, an 8-wheel drive vehicle built specifically to “go places no man has gone before.”  We then proceeded to take the lumpiest, bumpiest ride of our lives along rocky paths, swamps, 45 degree hills both up and down a 650 foot mountain.  It was great fun, and I remember thinking that it was good that Beverly did not try this one.  A number of guests were either frightened or very uncomfortable.

The Otago Peninsula headland is arguably the most precious wildlife habitat in New Zealand, and while I did not get to see the albatross I did see the world’s rarest penguins, the yellow-eyed hoiho, along with a bunch of little blue penguins.  Next, we stopped at a breeding colony of New Zealand Fur Seals and saw their adorable pups.  We also got to see some Spotted Shags and a breeding colony of cormorants.  Along the way be must have seen hundreds of animal traps.  I inquired and learned that these were to protect the seals and penguins from rats, cats, opossum and other predators.  This safari was followed by a most unmemorable lunch (opossum burger?) and then the long trip back to Dunedin.  We toured a bit of the town and then it was back to the ship for a well deserved rest, which I decided to take in the pool and hot tub. 








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